Each eye has a natural lash shape and size. During the client consultation, determine which shape and design best suits your clients eyes. Doing a comparison of the clients longest natural lash to an extension can help you determine the appropriate length. LASH MAPPING is the “blueprint” for the lash artist to follow. Use a pen and gently draw the desired lengths and sections on the tape/gel pad. The lash map serves as a guide for each eye and will keep work symmetrical and organized. Be sure to select a length no more than 3mm longer than their natural lashes. Always remember to use shorter lengths in the inner section of the lash line. We only want to enhance the inner eye by creating boldness, rather than giving length.
Eye Shapes and Recommended Lash Mapping
Close Set Eyes
When working with close set eyes it’s best practice to place longer length lashes in the outer center portion of the eye. This is because it draws attention to the outer portion rather than making close set eyes look even closer.
Working with round eyes, it’s best to use a lighter curl such as a C curl to enhance the shape of the eyes. Applying more length at the outer portion of the eye to create a cat-eye look is a good lash map for round eyes.
In order to provide the appearance of width to the eye, use B curls on the ends and a tighter curl in the center.
To open up your clients eyes, use a tighter curl such as an L, C, or D curl to make them pop!
Using shorter lashes in the inner and outer corner of your clients eyes will give the illusion that they are more lifted.
Wide Set Eyes
It’s best to use longer lashes in the center to avoid the cat-eye look. The cat-eye look is not the most flattering on wide set eyes.
This type of lash style is called a gorgeous look which is flattering on wide set, hooded, and down turned eyes. You can see that by using shorter fans on the outer and inner corners and longer lengths in the center, the clients eyes are opened up without being overtaken. As you can see we used D curls from lengths of 9mm-12mm.
This type of lash style is called the wet look! This lash map was used with 10-12mm D curl volume lashes! Wet look lashes are created from using closed volume lashes to create Spikes in between fans. To achieve the closed fan use a bonder with your volume fans which will prevent the fan from opening. Start with outlining the design with longer lengths 12mm in each quadrant of the eye. Then filling in with shorter lengths of 10mm and 11mm in between each quadrant. The “Wet” effect is drawn from the spikes.